East Wilmans Spire 6120'
Monte Cristo, Wa

Thomas and I decided to take advantage a nice mid October day and take a little bike ride up to Monte Cristo off the Mountain Loop. Monte Cristo is accessed most easily by riding mountain bikes from Barlow Pass at the gate. The ride in is 4 miles and gains about 400 feet. It is an easy ride in and a fun one going out.

The hike from the old mining town is about 2 1/2 miles (estimate) to the bottom of the nasty scree field that you must go up to gain the gulley that you climb to get to the notch. From the notch you turn left and continue up to the upper notch where you will rope and begin the climb. The climb is done in just two pitches with the first one being a full rope length. The route requires you to climb up above a ramp that is not accessible from the start then down climb to the ramp before continuing on.

The first belay station has old piton to mark the location. It can be a bit difficult to find. The route continues up and to the right then gains the summit platform. The summit platform is relatively small and slopes toward the 300 foot or so drop off at about a 20 degree angle. There are three pins there for anchors and are used for rappelling off. You will rappel in three raps to get the start then you can rap the top of the gulley and again the lower part of the gulley. The rest of the gulley is down climbed. Things to be aware of are: The rock quality is pretty bad so be careful rappelling and be particularly careful in the gulley. The best time to do this climb is early season when the scree field and gulley are covered in snow. Overall a fun climb that would be more fun early season. The two pitches are easy and go about 5.4 for the second one. We found an old mine by taking a detour on the descent and used an old cable to get down the hillside through the trees and over some short steps. Pretty fun. Would be fun to go up in the area in the winter. Google Map Link Reference Cascade Alpine Guide Vol. 2 page 64.

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