Kautz Glacier is considered an ice climb by the Mountaineers when done after July 1st. The route ascends the Turtle snow field then, in summer, you will cross rock and scramble up the rubble following a climber's trail to about 11,200 feet where there is an anchor for rappelling and a fixed rope to climb up if you return the same way. The ice climb portion is relatively easy with some 35 degree climbing followed by 45 to 50 degree climbing for about 1200 to 1500 vertical feet with some occasional 60 degree angle stuff depending upon which route you choose. After the ice fall you just work your way up through crevasses being very careful on the snow bridges until you reach Point Success at about 14,000' from there you walk down into a saddle then up to the summit.  We descended the route as well rather than do a carry over by setting up two ice bollards for 2 double rope rappels and made it to the bottom of the ice fall. The worst part of the whole climb was descending the Fan, a boulder strewn gulley on the west side of the Nisqually Glacier. A great climb with not many people on it. Watch the afternoon snow bridges on warm late summer days as they get soft.
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